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The Betty V3.2 talking paintball bomb prop with keypad + FAST countdown timer
This is the sixth and FINAL version of "The Betty" paintball prop! Let me introduce to you V3.2. This listing is for a fully assembled Betty Paintball Time Prop Version 3.2. It now comes with an external keypad, with lots of holes for easy mounting! The Betty is a wonderful little prop that talks to you. We have improved the countdown timer hardware, and we've also optimized software functionality. It features a four digit combination lock function/deactivation mode. There is a wire-cut mode as well! You can program in one of four wires as the deactivation wire. Per game, of course. These wires are female-female wire connectors that plug directly into the board. You can simply remove a wire during the game (for the sake of recycling), or you can cut them, and replace the wire when the game is over.
We After beta testing the Betty 3.0 and Betty 3.1, we found that many people found the EEPROM memory function to be unnecessary, so we have rid the circuit of that functionality. The Betty 3.2 also has a software routine that tells you if all of the wire-cut wires are not connected properly. During power up, if all four of the wire-cut wires are not connected properly, the red indicator LED will turn on and stay on until you have them all connected properly. This will save a ton of time later on! A full demonstration can be found in the above video!
This version has a default code of 10, 10, 10, 9. You can also easily enter code re-programming mode during the power on sequence so that you can program in your own special code for that specific game. The only way to disarm the Betty once it is running is to either cut/remove the correct wire, or to enter in the correct combination. Entering an incorrect combination, shaking the Betty, or cutting one of the incorrect wires will act to trigger a FAST countdown mode where the countdown timer counts down 20x times as fast. Just like in the movies!. If you cut the wrong wire, then cut the deactivation wire, it will have no effect. If you cut the incorrect wire, then the only way to disarm is to enter in the correct sequential 4-digit combination.
It also includes loud siren/relay option, an 8-ohm 0.5 watt speaker so that the device can talk to you, and a countdown timer that is easily programmed using only one button! You can program the game to be anywhere from 00:00 to 99:59 (1 hour/40 minutes). To top that off, there is a vibration tamper option that causes a FAST countdown if you are trying to be dishonest with the device! This vibration option can be easily disabled and re-enabled if you see fit. WATCH THE ABOVE VIDEO FOR A FULL DEMONSTRATION!
This set also includes a whack of female-female wire connectors so that you have extra for wire-cut mode.
THE LISTED SHIPPING COSTS GETS YOU AIR SHIPPING FROM CANADA!
The video above may be long, but it gives you a full demonstration. It also shows you how each of the boards are connected together. The video above will serve as the primary manual for this product. I will speak about specifications and how it works below.
Some Preliminary Things To Note:
1) This device comes assembled, but without a casing. It is up to the user to mount both boards and the loud siren, should the user decide to use the siren. The user can choose not to use the siren, and instead use the 5v relay to switch on something external to the circuit. This is talked about more below.
The three boards, and the loud siren each have mounting holes for easy installation. As well, the siren has the option of using a two-sided tape strip on the back of the siren. Simply remove the protective layer, and stick your siren to your project box.
2) A solid 9-12v power supply is required (Not included). If the voltage at the input drops below 7v, the device memory will not function correctly. The device will misbehave if the supply voltage falls below 7v. Your power source should be able to support 1A or higher. When in standby mode, the Betty requires only a few milliamps to operate. When the siren goes off, it requires up to 700mA of current. Three to five 9v batteries in parallel (NOT SERIES) will work just fine. 5x 9v batteries in parallel will work even better. 5-6x D-Cell 1.5v batteries in series will work well too. Optimal is 11.1v LIPO or Lead Acid.
This Set Comes With:
1x Fully Assembled Betty Board V3.2 (Tested)
1x Fully Assembled Countdown Timer Board (Tested & Connected To The Main Betty Board)
1x Fully Assembled Keypad (Tested & Connected To The Main Betty Board)
1x Modified Loud Siren With Plug
1x 0.5W 8 Ohm Speaker (To be plugged into SPK header)
1x Bundle Of Extra Wires For Wire-Cut Mode!
How It Works: (Watch the video for a full demonstration - Highly Recommended)
When you first receive your device and you have it mounted in your project box, power it up. When you apply power, the device will introduce itself by saying "Betty". This name was taken from Kung Pow - The Movie. Best movie ever! Love Master Pain! I digress. The device will then say "Enter Combination". The default code is 10, 10, 10, 9. If you do not have all of your wire-cut wires connected properly, then the red LED will stay on until you do. The combination of 10,10,10,9 will be the default code after every power up, unless you program in your own code. To program in your own special code for the game, power the device down and make sure that you are holding down the "1" button on the board while you re-apply power. Hold this button down until you hear "Enter Program Mode". Let go when you hear that. Then it will be able to enter in a four digit combination. Do so, and it will say "Code Programmed", "System Ready", "Program Wire"... If you don't want to program in a new code for the game, just power the device up as is. The green "ACCESS" LED will flash, which indicates that the code will be 10, 10, 10, 9. If you want to always be programming your own codes for each game, you'll have to make sure that when you power the device on, you are holding down the "1" button.
Program Wire Mode:
When the device prompts the user to "Program Wire", it means that you get to choose which wire will be the deactivation wire. This is fun! If you look at the main board, there are four flying wire sets. Each wire is connected to two pins on an 8-pin header. Of the left hand side, look at the board. You will see that the left most pins are labelled "W1/W2/W3/W4", and that the right pins are simply labelled "COMMON". Each "W" must be connected to any of the pins on the COMMON rail. So W1 must always be connected to the common rail, W2 must be connected to the common rail, etc. If you hold down the S1 button, the green LED will flash once, then there will be a short delay. If you continue to hold, it will flash two times, then a delay, then three times if you continue to hold, hollowed with a delay, then four times, then a delay, then back to one flash if you are for some reason still holding it =). If after any of those four intervals you let go, then the programmed wire will be as many as the LEDs have flashed. Meaning that if I let go immediately after the green LED flashes three times, then W3 (wire#3) will be the deactivation wire when in active mode. All other wires will trigger the alarm. If after being prompted to Program Wire, I hold the button down and let go after two flashes of the green LED, then W2 will disable the system, and all other wires will trigger the alarm. Once you have chosen your wire, the device will prompt you to READY CLOCK!
Ready Clock:
When you power on the Betty, power should also be reaching the countdown timer board. This device can be programmed up to 99 minutes and 59 seconds (9956), so there is a limitation relative to time. Upon power up, the right most digit will show a "0". This is the "Second" digit, and it can be programmed up to a value of "9" by tapping the S1 button. If the user increments this digit past a value of 9, the digit will reset back to 0. Once you are done programming the "second" digit, hold the S1 button down for a few seconds, then let go, and the next digit to the left lights up. This is the "10-second" digit, and it can be programmed up to a maximum value of 5. The right most digit and this digit work to program the seconds of the counter up to a maximum value of "59". Once you're done programming the 10-second digit, hold the 1 button down for a few seconds, then let go. the digit that is second from the left will light up. This is your "minute" digit, and it can be programmed up to a maximum value of 9. Once you are done programming this digit, hold the 1 button down again for a few seconds, and then let go. The left-most digit lights up, and this is your "10-minute digit". You can program this up to a value of 9. Once you've programmed in this digit value, press and hold the 1 button one more time, then let go. No digits should be lit up. From here, one quick tap on the 1 button will start the countdown.
System Ready:
When the device says (System Ready), it will follow with (Enter Combination). From here, the correct combination or the correct wire being cut-removed will deactivate the system. The default code is 10, 10, 10, 9. That will be the default code after every power up, unless you program in your own code. If the clock runs out, the alarm will sound. If you enter in the wrong combination, the system will tell the countdown timer to start counting down 20x times as fast. The main Betty board will say "Incorrect Combination", then "Enter Combination". If you deactivate the system, the device will say "System Deactivated", then the device will reset, and will again say (Betty).
On Board Vibration Sensor - Overall Tamper:
There are three methods of tampering with this device:
1) An incorrect combination is entered.
2) The incorrect wire is cut.
3) The user is violent, or running with the prop.
The countdown timer board has a vibration sensor on it that can be enabled or disabled by following the steps in the above video. Please note this when you are using the board.
The Relay Or The Siren - You Choose!
This device comes to you with a modified siren that can be plugged directly into the main board and removed at any time. You have the option of using the relay to activate the loud siren, or to switch on something external. The relay outputs are CO - Common, NC - Normally Closed, and NO - Normally Open. You only need to know this if you want the relay to act as a switch to something external. The relay contacts are isolated from the Betty circuitry. The common pin is connected to the normally closed pin when the relay is deactivated. If the relay is triggered when the clock time elapses, or if you but the wrong wire, the relay activates, the the common pin connects to the normally open pin. These contacts and PCB traces are rated for high power, so you can use this to trigger a fuse if you wish.
WHEN THE ALARM GOES OFF...
When the alarm & relay is activated when the system is triggered, the user WILL NOT be able to turn it off until after the red LED is turned off. When the alarm is triggered, the user has to wait a minimum of 5 seconds until that red LED turns off before the alarm can be deactivated. After the red LED turns off, the user can press any button on the main board to reset the unit.
Disclaimer:
This prop module was created specifically to enhance your tactical gaming experience. Engineeringshock Electronics, paintballprops.com, and any affiliates of Engineeringshock Electronics will not be held accountable for losses or consequences caused by the misuse of this product, or any of our products. Furthermore, we will not offer servicing on products that have been modified in any way. By purchasing this product, you are agreeing to the above statement. Engineeringshock Electronics, paintballprops.com, and any affiliates of Engineeringshock Electronics prohibit the re-sale of this product, or any of our products.
IF YOU WANT TO USE THE SIREN - LISTEN UP!
The siren is enabled by doing two things. Plugging it in and placing a jumper on the siren enable pins. If you are going to use the siren, you cannot use the relay for an external switch. If you are going to use the relay for an external switch, you CANNOT have the siren connected, and you CANNOT have the siren enable jumper connected. This is very important. The siren has two leads that need to be connected to a two pin header labelled SRN on the main board. One of the siren wires is red, and the other is black. It is connected to a two pin female plug. On the bottom of the board, there is a label for the siren leads (Siren+ and Siren-). Make sure that the red wire connects to the Siren+ line, and the black wire connects to the Siren- line. DO NOT REVERSE! The Siren+ line from the top side faces the microchips, while the Siren- pin is facing the blue 5v relay. The two pin enable (EN) jumper is just to the right of the SRN jumper connector. The two pin header connect should be placed on the EN leads to short them if you have the siren connected.
MAKE SURE not to have either connected if you are using the relay to switch on an external peripheral.
Power Requirements:
Power is connected through the two pin power terminal block. The pin labelled V+ (On board) is where you connect your positive DC voltage (9-12VDC). The GND terminal is the DC ground terminal for your DC ground line (Negative).
I have tried to outline what power is consumed at certain points below at different supply voltages so that you can better determine if your power source will do. The currents are rough, but should be accurate to 10%. It is hard to nail it down because the digits on the clock will weigh on the current consumption at any given time. At 12v input, the siren is louder, but it consumes more current. At 9v, the device consumes less current on the whole, but the siren is less loud. However, it is still certainly loud enough to wake the dead! Please note that the on board regulator will get HOT when the input supply is 12v, but it will not be damaged. Just be careful not to touch it. Also, if you have 11v-12v powering the board, try to make sure that if the alarm is triggered that you keep the siren on for no longer than 30 seconds. This is not an issue if the device is being powered at 9v-10v.
Input Supply Voltage: 8.0v Min to 12v MAX - Nominal is 9v.
Full System Current Consumption At 12v:
Standby Current: 25mA (Depending On Clock)
Relay Activated (No Siren): 80mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 400mA- 700mA
Full System Current Consumption At 9v:
Standby Current: 15mA - 20mA
Relay Activated (No Siren): 40mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 350mA- 700mA
Main Board Size Specifications:
Length: 83mm
Width: 60mm
Height: 18mm
Countdown Timer Board Size Specifications:
Length: 90mm
Width: 36mm
Height: 11mm
Siren Size Specifications:
Base Length: 64mm
Base Width: 54mm
Height: 49mm
If you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to ask! Please make sure to watch the video! Thanks for taking an interest!
We After beta testing the Betty 3.0 and Betty 3.1, we found that many people found the EEPROM memory function to be unnecessary, so we have rid the circuit of that functionality. The Betty 3.2 also has a software routine that tells you if all of the wire-cut wires are not connected properly. During power up, if all four of the wire-cut wires are not connected properly, the red indicator LED will turn on and stay on until you have them all connected properly. This will save a ton of time later on! A full demonstration can be found in the above video!
This version has a default code of 10, 10, 10, 9. You can also easily enter code re-programming mode during the power on sequence so that you can program in your own special code for that specific game. The only way to disarm the Betty once it is running is to either cut/remove the correct wire, or to enter in the correct combination. Entering an incorrect combination, shaking the Betty, or cutting one of the incorrect wires will act to trigger a FAST countdown mode where the countdown timer counts down 20x times as fast. Just like in the movies!. If you cut the wrong wire, then cut the deactivation wire, it will have no effect. If you cut the incorrect wire, then the only way to disarm is to enter in the correct sequential 4-digit combination.
It also includes loud siren/relay option, an 8-ohm 0.5 watt speaker so that the device can talk to you, and a countdown timer that is easily programmed using only one button! You can program the game to be anywhere from 00:00 to 99:59 (1 hour/40 minutes). To top that off, there is a vibration tamper option that causes a FAST countdown if you are trying to be dishonest with the device! This vibration option can be easily disabled and re-enabled if you see fit. WATCH THE ABOVE VIDEO FOR A FULL DEMONSTRATION!
This set also includes a whack of female-female wire connectors so that you have extra for wire-cut mode.
THE LISTED SHIPPING COSTS GETS YOU AIR SHIPPING FROM CANADA!
The video above may be long, but it gives you a full demonstration. It also shows you how each of the boards are connected together. The video above will serve as the primary manual for this product. I will speak about specifications and how it works below.
Some Preliminary Things To Note:
1) This device comes assembled, but without a casing. It is up to the user to mount both boards and the loud siren, should the user decide to use the siren. The user can choose not to use the siren, and instead use the 5v relay to switch on something external to the circuit. This is talked about more below.
The three boards, and the loud siren each have mounting holes for easy installation. As well, the siren has the option of using a two-sided tape strip on the back of the siren. Simply remove the protective layer, and stick your siren to your project box.
2) A solid 9-12v power supply is required (Not included). If the voltage at the input drops below 7v, the device memory will not function correctly. The device will misbehave if the supply voltage falls below 7v. Your power source should be able to support 1A or higher. When in standby mode, the Betty requires only a few milliamps to operate. When the siren goes off, it requires up to 700mA of current. Three to five 9v batteries in parallel (NOT SERIES) will work just fine. 5x 9v batteries in parallel will work even better. 5-6x D-Cell 1.5v batteries in series will work well too. Optimal is 11.1v LIPO or Lead Acid.
This Set Comes With:
1x Fully Assembled Betty Board V3.2 (Tested)
1x Fully Assembled Countdown Timer Board (Tested & Connected To The Main Betty Board)
1x Fully Assembled Keypad (Tested & Connected To The Main Betty Board)
1x Modified Loud Siren With Plug
1x 0.5W 8 Ohm Speaker (To be plugged into SPK header)
1x Bundle Of Extra Wires For Wire-Cut Mode!
How It Works: (Watch the video for a full demonstration - Highly Recommended)
When you first receive your device and you have it mounted in your project box, power it up. When you apply power, the device will introduce itself by saying "Betty". This name was taken from Kung Pow - The Movie. Best movie ever! Love Master Pain! I digress. The device will then say "Enter Combination". The default code is 10, 10, 10, 9. If you do not have all of your wire-cut wires connected properly, then the red LED will stay on until you do. The combination of 10,10,10,9 will be the default code after every power up, unless you program in your own code. To program in your own special code for the game, power the device down and make sure that you are holding down the "1" button on the board while you re-apply power. Hold this button down until you hear "Enter Program Mode". Let go when you hear that. Then it will be able to enter in a four digit combination. Do so, and it will say "Code Programmed", "System Ready", "Program Wire"... If you don't want to program in a new code for the game, just power the device up as is. The green "ACCESS" LED will flash, which indicates that the code will be 10, 10, 10, 9. If you want to always be programming your own codes for each game, you'll have to make sure that when you power the device on, you are holding down the "1" button.
Program Wire Mode:
When the device prompts the user to "Program Wire", it means that you get to choose which wire will be the deactivation wire. This is fun! If you look at the main board, there are four flying wire sets. Each wire is connected to two pins on an 8-pin header. Of the left hand side, look at the board. You will see that the left most pins are labelled "W1/W2/W3/W4", and that the right pins are simply labelled "COMMON". Each "W" must be connected to any of the pins on the COMMON rail. So W1 must always be connected to the common rail, W2 must be connected to the common rail, etc. If you hold down the S1 button, the green LED will flash once, then there will be a short delay. If you continue to hold, it will flash two times, then a delay, then three times if you continue to hold, hollowed with a delay, then four times, then a delay, then back to one flash if you are for some reason still holding it =). If after any of those four intervals you let go, then the programmed wire will be as many as the LEDs have flashed. Meaning that if I let go immediately after the green LED flashes three times, then W3 (wire#3) will be the deactivation wire when in active mode. All other wires will trigger the alarm. If after being prompted to Program Wire, I hold the button down and let go after two flashes of the green LED, then W2 will disable the system, and all other wires will trigger the alarm. Once you have chosen your wire, the device will prompt you to READY CLOCK!
Ready Clock:
When you power on the Betty, power should also be reaching the countdown timer board. This device can be programmed up to 99 minutes and 59 seconds (9956), so there is a limitation relative to time. Upon power up, the right most digit will show a "0". This is the "Second" digit, and it can be programmed up to a value of "9" by tapping the S1 button. If the user increments this digit past a value of 9, the digit will reset back to 0. Once you are done programming the "second" digit, hold the S1 button down for a few seconds, then let go, and the next digit to the left lights up. This is the "10-second" digit, and it can be programmed up to a maximum value of 5. The right most digit and this digit work to program the seconds of the counter up to a maximum value of "59". Once you're done programming the 10-second digit, hold the 1 button down for a few seconds, then let go. the digit that is second from the left will light up. This is your "minute" digit, and it can be programmed up to a maximum value of 9. Once you are done programming this digit, hold the 1 button down again for a few seconds, and then let go. The left-most digit lights up, and this is your "10-minute digit". You can program this up to a value of 9. Once you've programmed in this digit value, press and hold the 1 button one more time, then let go. No digits should be lit up. From here, one quick tap on the 1 button will start the countdown.
System Ready:
When the device says (System Ready), it will follow with (Enter Combination). From here, the correct combination or the correct wire being cut-removed will deactivate the system. The default code is 10, 10, 10, 9. That will be the default code after every power up, unless you program in your own code. If the clock runs out, the alarm will sound. If you enter in the wrong combination, the system will tell the countdown timer to start counting down 20x times as fast. The main Betty board will say "Incorrect Combination", then "Enter Combination". If you deactivate the system, the device will say "System Deactivated", then the device will reset, and will again say (Betty).
On Board Vibration Sensor - Overall Tamper:
There are three methods of tampering with this device:
1) An incorrect combination is entered.
2) The incorrect wire is cut.
3) The user is violent, or running with the prop.
The countdown timer board has a vibration sensor on it that can be enabled or disabled by following the steps in the above video. Please note this when you are using the board.
The Relay Or The Siren - You Choose!
This device comes to you with a modified siren that can be plugged directly into the main board and removed at any time. You have the option of using the relay to activate the loud siren, or to switch on something external. The relay outputs are CO - Common, NC - Normally Closed, and NO - Normally Open. You only need to know this if you want the relay to act as a switch to something external. The relay contacts are isolated from the Betty circuitry. The common pin is connected to the normally closed pin when the relay is deactivated. If the relay is triggered when the clock time elapses, or if you but the wrong wire, the relay activates, the the common pin connects to the normally open pin. These contacts and PCB traces are rated for high power, so you can use this to trigger a fuse if you wish.
WHEN THE ALARM GOES OFF...
When the alarm & relay is activated when the system is triggered, the user WILL NOT be able to turn it off until after the red LED is turned off. When the alarm is triggered, the user has to wait a minimum of 5 seconds until that red LED turns off before the alarm can be deactivated. After the red LED turns off, the user can press any button on the main board to reset the unit.
Disclaimer:
This prop module was created specifically to enhance your tactical gaming experience. Engineeringshock Electronics, paintballprops.com, and any affiliates of Engineeringshock Electronics will not be held accountable for losses or consequences caused by the misuse of this product, or any of our products. Furthermore, we will not offer servicing on products that have been modified in any way. By purchasing this product, you are agreeing to the above statement. Engineeringshock Electronics, paintballprops.com, and any affiliates of Engineeringshock Electronics prohibit the re-sale of this product, or any of our products.
IF YOU WANT TO USE THE SIREN - LISTEN UP!
The siren is enabled by doing two things. Plugging it in and placing a jumper on the siren enable pins. If you are going to use the siren, you cannot use the relay for an external switch. If you are going to use the relay for an external switch, you CANNOT have the siren connected, and you CANNOT have the siren enable jumper connected. This is very important. The siren has two leads that need to be connected to a two pin header labelled SRN on the main board. One of the siren wires is red, and the other is black. It is connected to a two pin female plug. On the bottom of the board, there is a label for the siren leads (Siren+ and Siren-). Make sure that the red wire connects to the Siren+ line, and the black wire connects to the Siren- line. DO NOT REVERSE! The Siren+ line from the top side faces the microchips, while the Siren- pin is facing the blue 5v relay. The two pin enable (EN) jumper is just to the right of the SRN jumper connector. The two pin header connect should be placed on the EN leads to short them if you have the siren connected.
MAKE SURE not to have either connected if you are using the relay to switch on an external peripheral.
Power Requirements:
Power is connected through the two pin power terminal block. The pin labelled V+ (On board) is where you connect your positive DC voltage (9-12VDC). The GND terminal is the DC ground terminal for your DC ground line (Negative).
I have tried to outline what power is consumed at certain points below at different supply voltages so that you can better determine if your power source will do. The currents are rough, but should be accurate to 10%. It is hard to nail it down because the digits on the clock will weigh on the current consumption at any given time. At 12v input, the siren is louder, but it consumes more current. At 9v, the device consumes less current on the whole, but the siren is less loud. However, it is still certainly loud enough to wake the dead! Please note that the on board regulator will get HOT when the input supply is 12v, but it will not be damaged. Just be careful not to touch it. Also, if you have 11v-12v powering the board, try to make sure that if the alarm is triggered that you keep the siren on for no longer than 30 seconds. This is not an issue if the device is being powered at 9v-10v.
Input Supply Voltage: 8.0v Min to 12v MAX - Nominal is 9v.
Full System Current Consumption At 12v:
Standby Current: 25mA (Depending On Clock)
Relay Activated (No Siren): 80mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 400mA- 700mA
Full System Current Consumption At 9v:
Standby Current: 15mA - 20mA
Relay Activated (No Siren): 40mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 350mA- 700mA
Main Board Size Specifications:
Length: 83mm
Width: 60mm
Height: 18mm
Countdown Timer Board Size Specifications:
Length: 90mm
Width: 36mm
Height: 11mm
Siren Size Specifications:
Base Length: 64mm
Base Width: 54mm
Height: 49mm
If you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to ask! Please make sure to watch the video! Thanks for taking an interest!